The Fabric Library: How We Test (And Reject) Over 60 Materials a Year
Before a single stitch is sewn, we open our fabric library.
It looks beautiful — shelves stacked with swatches in every weight, weave, and color. But behind that quiet room is a brutal process. Every year, our design team tests over 60 new fabrics. We say yes to 3 or 4.
The rest go into a box labeled "Not for RiderAtelier."
Here's what fails — and why.
Round 1: The Hand Feel Lie
A fabric can feel amazing in your hand. Soft. Smooth. Expensive.
Then you wear it for 20 minutes in a saddle.
One of our favorite rejects was a premium bamboo blend. Off the bolt, it was buttery. On a rider? It stretched out permanently after one ride. The knee patches sagged. The hem curled.
Our rule now: If it doesn't recover its shape within 30 seconds of stretching, it's out.
Round 2: The UPF Test Most Brands Skip
Many brands claim UPF 50+. But here's what they don't tell you: stretching a fabric lowers its UPF.
A knit that tests at UPF 50+ on a flat table can drop to UPF 15 when stretched across a rider's shoulder.
We test every fabric at 30% stretch — the same stretch that happens when you reach for the reins. If it falls below UPF 40, we walk away.
Round 3: The 10-Wash Rule
A fabric should get better, not worse.
We wash every candidate 10 times before approval. No fabric softener. No special treatment. Just machine wash, tumble dry low.
What we watch for:
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Pilling (unacceptable after 10 washes)
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Color fade (must hold at 95%+)
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Seam puckering (means the fabric and thread don't agree)
Most fabrics fail between wash 4 and wash 7. That's fine. We'd rather find out now than have you find out later.
The Fabrics That Survived
The three or four we keep each year become something specific.
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The Performance Knit (UPF 50+, 4-way stretch, 200+ GSM) — our Everyday Long Sleeve
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The Lightweight Jersey (breathable, quick-dry) — summer silhouettes
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The Structured Cotton Blend (for pieces that need to hold shape)
Everything else? Reject archive.
Why We're Picky
Fabric is 80% of the experience. You can have perfect seams, beautiful prints, and thoughtful details. But if the fabric feels wrong — too stiff, too sticky, too hot — nothing else matters.
So we test. We reject. We start over.
And when you finally wear a RiderAtelier garment and think, "I don't know what this is made of, but it feels right" — that's the fabric library doing its job.




